If you have any questions or would like more information feel free to contact Michelle at Print Cut Sew! via email or snail mail: 

32 Hillview Dr,
Dartmouth ,NS, Canada
B2W 6J2
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{ 44 comments… read them below or add one }

Denise 02.06.09 at 10:22 am

Hi Michelle:
Your website/blog is FANTASTIC – what a lot of work!
All the best for the 11th

By the way, the link from “designer’s I love” on the bottom right of the page, doesnt work.


leona robertson 02.13.09 at 3:25 pm

Hi Michelle
I live in Halifax. I was wondering if you ever do workshops (in all your spare time, ha ha)?

admin 02.14.09 at 9:37 am

I don’t do any workshops- but that’s why I created this blog- so that people could learn in a workshop tutorial style anytime they wished.

J.P. 02.23.09 at 11:00 am

Do you know of a PC computer program that I can turn photo’s into cartoons.
Not real expensive, something I would be able to purchase maybe at a retail store. I know that photo shop offers some of this but if a specific program is out there I’d like to see what it is.

admin 02.23.09 at 11:09 am

I don’t believe there is anything- all of my work is drawn by hand to achieve that graphic look- you could attempt to get something close with Adobe Photoshop.

Kim 03.28.09 at 4:13 pm

Hello, I saw some of your posts in craftster forum and checked out your site. It is very helpful but alas I still feel lost, well maybe not lost. I just still think that I am just not suited to build screens and deal w/ all the chemicals as I am in an apt with no patio and I have a 1 year old! What advice can you give me knowing I don’t have alot of space or money..I have heard of these photoEZ sheets, with that and some good ink, squeegee, shirts…u think that would give me somewhat decent results? To have my own shop like you would be amazing, but right now I’m just looking to make a couple shirts for my friends and maybe sell a few at some craft shows, and I have been using a medium for fabrics mixed with acrylic paint for tote bags and things and that works great and all, but it does take a long time while doing it by hand, even with the freezer paper stencil because once you use it one time it’s warped and you have to make another stencil each time. Sorry for talking your ear off, just feel like there has to be a medium between the professional screening and hand painting/stenciling.

admin 03.28.09 at 11:17 pm

I’m sure all this information can be overwhelming. You should purchase a screen if you are not confident making one, then your should try making paper stencils from map making paper- they’re fast easy and reusable. If you download my free ebook you’ll see an entire section on paper cut stencils- I also have a quick post on how to do it. This could be a great way for you to start. BUT I would stop using acrylic with fabric medium because when you heat set it releases formaldehyde into the air and with a one year old in the house I don’t think that’s a great thing. Also, just so you know, I now work out of my home too- my bedroom and my bathroom are my studio- so if I can do it so can you!

Joseph Fromme 04.01.09 at 9:11 am

Dear Michelle,

Your business sounds wonderful – much success! I was always facinated by
screen printing but do not have any hands -on experience. I am a textile designer ,living now, in Truro , NS. I worked for WestPoint Home in NYC,
designing bedding products. I would love to be back in the design field.

I was wondering if you need any help in your studio – mixing colors, repeats,
printing,etc. I am seeking some temporary work-a couple of days a week on a freelance basis if you could use me.

I hope to hear from you, soon and thank you in advance for any consideration.

Yours truly,

Joseph Fromme
as I need a s

admin 04.01.09 at 10:48 am

Hi Joseph, I replied to your comment directly to your email. Thanks

Donna 04.27.09 at 3:57 pm

Hello Michelle,

Love your site! Do you have any suggestions for blending new colors? I have been searching for a color chart with the mixing measurements so I don’t have to guess and waste good material when I try to blend new colors. Have you used the supercover base and tints?


admin 04.28.09 at 6:41 pm

I have never come across a colour card with recipes. I think most people are logging and making their own. I generally use a pantone colour chart as a reference for a starting point for proportions and then I mix by eye- testing on a piece of fabric as I go- I also log the measurements and additions too. Once I get a colour I like, I write down the recipe and then print a swatch of the fabric and staple them together for reference later. It is worth it to take the time to do this- before you know it you’ll have a large colour guide for yourself.

cathy brown 06.11.09 at 9:09 am

It shows That I already subscribed. How do I get the “guide to screenprinting”?

admin 06.11.09 at 10:10 am

You’ll be emailed a ‘thank you page’ and the link to download your copy is contained there. Please check your junk mail folder to see that the email did not get directed there. Thanks.

Karin Olson 07.15.09 at 4:36 pm

Thanks Michelle! I’m just a hobbyist who retired from government work 3 years ago. Now I have the time (but less money!) to do the things I want. Your site and the ebook look wonderful. (Just discovered today while Googling.) Keep up the good work and thanks for helping the rest of us. By the way, are you in Nova Scotia (NS??) . That’s a place I’d love to see some day. (sigh) Thanks again! KO

admin 07.19.09 at 5:39 am

I am in NS- you should visit some day. :)

Alma S. 08.09.09 at 6:44 pm

I love your work! Thank you for sharing it with us. I just got into DIY screenprinting and it is soooo addictive- I love it!
From a noob at this I do want to clarify (excuse me if it has already been asked) for every additional color you want to add, you have to allow for dry time and create additional screens (as many as you want layers), correct?
I have been doing single color screenprinting and was going to try multiple colors and was searching to see what the easiest options were. What dry time have you noticed on your paint? I use the Speedball fabric screenprinting inks.

Thanks again for sharing your craft – much continued success to you!

admin 08.10.09 at 3:04 pm

You might want to start by reading my intro to screen registration.
If you do a search you can get the other articles.
But to quickly answer your questions, for every colour you print you need an new screen and you need to let the first colour dry to the touch at least. Drying often depends on the amount of coverage, the heat and humidity and the material you print on. So it will almost always vary.
good luck!

paula 08.24.09 at 7:48 am


thank you so much, you have just made me want to do more printing!!
i havent been able to much over the past year or so.. loss of confidence and all that – but i started some work saturday, and popped on here to have a little look around and came across you…. and you really have given me that excited feeling! or a massve kick up the * – in heloing me think – ‘i can do it!’

thanks again… now going to have a look around here…

would love to post some images when i do them – see *when* not *if* now for me :)

cheers! paula , UK

admin 08.24.09 at 9:50 am

I would love to see some of your newly inspired work!

Natasha 09.22.10 at 3:09 pm

Thanks for the tip on NatGeo’s Adventure paper! It’s cheap (as far as stuff used to make stencils go) and easy to cut! I have become a stencilling fool!

I heard Hurricane Igor pounded the NS coast — hope everything is OK out there!!
Natasha, SoCal

Robin H 10.11.10 at 3:25 pm

Your website is great and I’m hooked on permaset inks but I was wondering if you have ever tried discharge printing and if so what did you use and what was your outcome?
Thanks so much!

admin 10.11.10 at 4:22 pm

I have tried discharge printing with hand dyed fabric. It works very well and i have also used discharge with permaset inks for a colour discharge. :)

Sarah 10.13.10 at 2:27 am

Hi there, I love your blog, I found it yesterday when looking up how to make my own printing table. Thanks for spreading the joy of printing! I did a textile printing design course at uni, but that was about (gulp) 8 years ago, so am a bit rusty to say the least.
So Im trying to set up at home, and have a few questions if that’s OK?….I downloaded your very helpful book, the lights i need for a bottom up lightbox are the blacklight tube ones, is it essential that they are 40w, could they be 30 or 20? as i have already built the box and trying now to find lights to fit (doh) is a bit trickier.
The felt for the table, …my boyfriend has some exhibition carpet, which isnt wool, its manmade fibres and thinner, but he has loads and thought I could layer it up, does it have to be wool?
One you have the calico fixed on the table, do you still need to pin a backing cloth to it?
The mesh for the screens, do you have a recommended thread count for the screens please?
Sorry to bombard you with questions, really appreciate your help so much!
Kind regards,

admin 10.13.10 at 5:03 am

You can use lower wattage but you’ll have to shoot for longer- you’ll have to test it out.
It doesn’t have to be wool- wool is just the ideal material.
Yes, you will always want to use a “drop sheet” or backing cloth.
good luck

Cynthia 11.05.10 at 2:16 pm

Wonderful website, I have this project in mind and would like to print it myself… I still am not fully equipped for screen-printing.
End product would be a Sarong (PAREO) for the beach with a funky graphic of my own. Printing large (75 in.) graphics on thin fabric hoping that the graphic makes it to the other side as well. How should I do this? Do I need discharge ink or would water base ink make it trough so that both sides are printed? Is there any ink out there that sets without drying?
I appreciate your help!

admin 11.06.10 at 5:22 am

You will need to work with discharge or dyes- not pigments. But both these things need to be steamed in a steamer (not with an iron). What you are attempting to do is quite advanced. Good luck.

Sarah 12.06.10 at 3:57 am

I found your website whilst looking for help in starting up screen printing…I want to buy an exposure machine and was wondering if you have any advice / recommendations? I’ve read along the way, people have built their own machines but I’m not confident or patient enough to do this! Is it not easier and more time efficient to do this?

Also , this is probably a very basic question (!) if I want to print larger than A3, how do I get my image on to the screen since most photocopiers only handle up to A3? I could divide the image up, photocopy it and tape it back together…but when I expose it on to the screen won’t the tape be exposed too??

Thank you in advance for your help!!

Danny 12.11.10 at 8:41 pm

Great Blog!

Can you give me some exposure times when using the sun?

admin 01.02.11 at 11:41 am

as quick as 30 seconds but it really depends on the time of year, the time of day and your location to the equator. In other words, you’ll have to do some experimenting. :)

admin 01.02.11 at 11:43 am

Yes- split the image up and i would approach a screen printing supply company that sells exposure units and purchase their least expensive unit to start out.

Liz 01.13.11 at 9:26 pm

Hi Michelle,
Many thanks for all the excellent information you have so generously shared with us all. I’m used to using a T-shirt press with a pallet and spray adhesive, but would like to set up a textile printing table for woven fabrics. I’ve gone to the felt website you mentioned, and there are many choices – should I look for the firmest type of felt that they offer, or is there another criteria I should use to select the best one for this purpose?

Kind regards,

admin 01.16.11 at 3:27 pm

I don’t think I would use the firmest felt they offer. I purchased an industrial quality 1/2″ and didn’t look for more than that.

Jodie Wilson 06.26.11 at 1:18 am

Hi Michelle. I am about to set up a home based screenprinting studio. Did you make your own printing table and exposure unit? Do you have any information that may assist? Jodie

admin 06.26.11 at 1:28 pm

I have lots of articles in this blog just for that. Check out my 101 series. Good luck.

Matt 07.21.11 at 9:15 am

Above you mentioned using discharge with permaset. What do you mean by that? Did you mix discharge paste and permaset? Did you lay down a discharge base and print permaset over top (this is what I assume)?

I use permaset and have also been playing around with screening discharge paste. Just curious what you meant.

Thanks! Great site. Learned a lot here.

admin 07.21.11 at 7:12 pm

With pigment you can mix the discharge right in with the pigment paste. Discharge will remove the dye not the pigment colour. So print it in one step, heat set the pigment then steam to get out the discharge. You might find you get a ‘ghost’ which is the very slim faint line around the pigment- but that is considered desirable and signals advanced skills with printing. :)

Amber 05.22.13 at 12:03 pm

Hi Michelle,

I’m thinking about upgrading from smaller screens (13 x 17) to larger screens (at leat 20″x24″). Currently, my prints are about the size of an 8.5″x11″ piece of paper because standard transparencies come in that size. I was hoping you could offer your advice on how you are able to burn large image sizes onto your large screens. Do you print your large images onto a single piece of large transparency? Also, with larger screens comes the need for larger dark rooms. Do you have any space-saving tips on letting your emulsion dry in the dark? Do you cover the screens with anti-UV material or do you use something like a dark room closet?

Thanks in advance,

Souleima 06.12.13 at 1:01 pm

Hi Michelle,
I love your blog! It’s so helpful, thank you
I was wondering if you ever tried exposing your screen under sunlight?
I wonder what time I should start the increments at.
Thanks again

Glorya 06.16.13 at 8:52 am


I LOVE your site And few questions for you pls:
1. Please, do you remember what was the mash count that you used in “Doctor Zhivago” CMYK printing process ? Since resolution of the video is not the best I actually cant see the real effect but I would like your advice for the mash (156?:).
Thank you in advance


admin 06.16.13 at 10:14 am

Hi- I use 110 mesh because I am printing on fabric- and therefore my ‘dots’ on the screen are larger- but I like that look. You can design a smaller halftone and print with 220 or higher is you are using paper.

admin 06.16.13 at 10:16 am

Yes- if you are exposing in full sun- start at 25 seconds- increase that time as needed. A test exposure is always useful.

admin 06.16.13 at 10:18 am

I use alrge pieces of paper that i oil with baby oil so they are similar to a transparency.

Glorya 06.16.13 at 2:23 pm

Thanks for reply :) I also printing textille,often with 110 . Im planing to do big prints on paper (36 x 36), some in raster, and since its tricky like any new job I wonder:
1. Should I go with 220 mesh? Or 250? Im afraid of corkage on 250 and I would like to use 220 for textille also but afraid of too low resolution.
2. Is it enough to left free 2,5 inches of mesh on every border free?

Thank you again:)

admin 06.19.13 at 8:18 am

You’ll have to test out the mesh but I think 220 could work- and I print on contact so I don’t worry about the area around the mesh but 2.5 seems about right.

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